Seigle d’Auvergne
Seigle d’Auvergne
This is very much my own formula adaptation, but it takes its inspiration from Daniel Leader’s lovely book “Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-grain Recipes from Europe’s Best Artisan Bakers”, see pp. 158 – 161. Leader credits Armandio Pimenta, who has a bakery in Clermont-Ferrand, Auvergne, as the source for his formula. My effort does not use the same refreshment regime, nor does it rely on hot water at the mixing stage. Leader has a photograph of his loaf in the plates between pages 84 and 85 of my edition; the loaves I baked compare well, although I made 2 Miche, scaled at just over 1700g, where Leader’s recipe produces 1 loaf, slightly smaller at 1195g.
Here is the detail:
Rye Sour Refreshment
Day | Date | Sour [g] | Dark Rye [g] | Water [g] | TOTAL [g] |
Thursday 22nd March | 20:30 | 40 | 150 | 250 | 440 |
Friday 23rd March | 18:30 | 440 | 300 | 500 | 1240 |
Final Dough
I made this on the Saturday morning, beginning the mixing at 06:00
Material/Stage | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1. Rye Sourdough |
|
|
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 22.5 | 450 |
Water | 37.5 | 750 |
TOTAL | 60 | 1200 |
|
|
|
2. Final Dough |
|
|
Rye Sourdough [from 1.] | 60 | 1200 |
Shipton Organic Light Rye [997] | 50 | 1000 |
Marriage’s Organic Strong Flour | 27.5 | 550 |
Salt | 1.6 | 32 |
Water | 35 | 700 |
TOTAL | 174.1 | 3482 |
|
|
|
% pre-fermented flour | 22.5 | - |
% overall hydration | 72.5 | - |
% wholegrain flour | 22.5 | plus 50% @ 0.997 ash |
FACTOR | 20 | - |
Method:
- Mix the sourdough, water and flours using a hook attachment, for 4 minutes on first speed, scraping down the bowl as needed. Autolyse for half an hour. Add the salt and mix 1 minute on first speed and 5 minutes on second speed, scraping down the bowl as required. DDT 26°C.
- Bulk ferment for 2½ hours.
- Scale the paste using wet hands into 2 pieces and shape round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare 2 bannetons dusted generously with dark rye flour. Re-shape the dough pieces and place smooth-side up into the bannetons.
- Final proof 1 hour.
- For baking, pre-heat the oven to 280°C for one hour. Tip the loaf directly onto the hearth stone, apply steam and bake without the fan for 15 minutes at 250°C. Drop the heat to 200°C, switch to convection and bake out for 50 minutes.
- Cool on wires
This is the dough at the end of bulk proof:
Finished Loaf, Crust and Crumb Shots:
We enjoyed one of these loaves with our dinner with friends last night. The depth of flavour from the sourdough was intense; it was an accompaniment to avocado, served with the biggest prawns I have ever seen. Munching on more of this bread with a salad for lunch today and I noted the sour flavour was much less pronounced, allowing more subtle flavours to come through; much improved to my taste. The crumb is moist, but not overly so, and wonderfully easy to chew on.
The first loaf stood up tall in the oven, even though the formula uses over 72% rye flour. I used Organic white bread flour at 11.6% protein, not High Gluten flour. I should have delayed shaping the second loaf, as the long bake time meant this loaf was over-proved when it came to bake. I’ve photographed the best-looking loaf, although the crumb shots come from the over-proved one.
We love this bread; such an eating treat for us for the rest of the week. The Market beckons; this means I have plenty of baking to do this week.
All good wishes
Andy
Comments
Great looking bake as always!
Your crumb looks nice an moist and open.
Thanks for sharing.
Ian
Hi Ian,
Yes, this bread is very easy to eat!
Thank you for all your kind words
Best wishes
Andy
Andy,
a beautiful loaf! I was in Auvergne 2 years ago and made photos of their different rye breads. But I wasn't in Thiézac and couldn't try their famous bread. Yours looks more like a Thièzac loaf (the round form, the rustic aspect), thought a Thièzas has 100% of rye flour.
Hello Eliabel,
I found Shiao-Ping's post here which I commented on ages ago soon after finding TFL:
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/15350/le-pain-de-seigle-de-thi%C3%A9zac-rye-bread-thi%C3%A9zac
The region of Auvergne apparently produces wheat and rye. You may well be right that Seigle d'Auvergne should be made from all rye flour. Personally, I shy away from making 100% rye loaves in bannetons; I like to do these loaves in pans/tins, as you will most likely already be aware of.
Your comments are much appreciated
All good wishes
Andy
A remarkable looking loaf Andy. The close up of the crust is spectacular. Lots of color in that flour you are using.
Eric
Thank you so much for your comments Eric, good to hear from you.
As you know I am very attached to the Bacheldre Dark Rye which I use exclusively in the sourdough. I also used this plus some Gilchesters' Semolina as dust for the bannetons.
Best wishes
Andy
Really spectacular. But I had to look twice to see that it was you posting just one bread. For your own enjoyment. How nice. -Varda
Hi Varda,
I've had a fair bit of consultancy and teaching work on. It was a joy to just make the one type of bread. When this happens it is not worth firing up the wood-fired oven, of course!
Thank you for your very kind words
Best wishes
Andy
A magnificent and proud loaf of bread ... no pretensions.
Will give you plenty of energy for all your baking during the week.
Cheers,
Phil
You are so right Phil,
This is about as honest a loaf as I can imagine making..and very hearty too
Very good to hear from you; thank you for your kind comments
Best wishes
Andy
Hi Andy,
Very handsome rye loaf! I've never tried this one, but I'd love to have a taste. As Phil said, this'll keep you going for the remainder of the week!
Hi Hans,
Well it's very nearly 80% Rye, although quite a bit of that is Light Rye. I am really happy with how this loaf turned out, for sure
It's really good to hear from you
Best wishes
Andy
I must get back to rye bread baking! Yours are truly inspiring!
I've baked all of the rye breads in the Czech and Polish sections of Local Breads. I should look again at the French pains de siegles. The one you baked certainly is tempting.
David
Hi David,
French peasant-style bread made with this level of rye? Yes you should bake this loaf! Eliabel suggests this should be made all-rye, as per Shiao-Pimg's post. I prefer the small amount of wheat, in all honesty.
Looking forward to your post on this already!
Best wishes
Andy
Hi Andy,
Your bread is every bit as beautiful as Mr. Leader's, and the crust is just like he describes!
I like how Mr. Leader relates the bread's appearance to the region it comes from.
:^) breadsong
Hi Breadsong,
Thank you for your very generous comments.
The generous dusting of semolina plus Dark Rye flour provided for a lovely crispy crust developing through the bake time of the first loaf.The crust and the volume in this bread were both very pleasing
All good wishes
Andy
I love the big closeup's of this beautiful bake! Your the rye man!
Sylvia
Thank you for your very kind words Sylvia
All good wishes
Andy
Hi Andy,
Wonderful bread!
The appearance somehow reminds me of the Auvergne landscape.
Best Wishes,
Juergen
I'm sure it is quite an amazing place, Juergen
Really good to hear from you
Best wishes
Andy
Such a rustic earthy looking light rye, Andy! Nice work.
Inspire on..
Hi Khalid,
Light Rye offers plenty glue in the dough, and good baking, so long as the ferment does not go too far. These are good tasty loaves for sure
All good wishes
Andy
believe that light rye was like Pierre Nury's Rustic Light Rye where there is almost no rye in the bread :-) Rye is in the eye of the beholder!
The ash content is significant here dabrownman,
Light Rye is 0.997% ash, Dark is anywhere between 1.35 and 1.8%.
Also, Light Rye is finely ground; the Dark Rye I use is very coarse indeed
Apparently an authentic loaf of this kind is made with all rye flour! I'm only brave enough to make such loaves in pans.
Best wishes
Andy
Another great bake. I really like this bread. It looks just like the bread you want to eat. It should be great with just about anything. Finally found some dark rye flour yesterday so am putting this up on my bake schedule as soon as we eat all the bread in the freezer :-)
I was thinking maybe it could use some, maybe a small amount 25 g or so, of the fake red rye malt. What do you think?
You and so many other bakers on TFL are inspirational. I haven't even heard of 10% the breads you folks are baking. Thanks for sharing your recipes.
Hello dabrownman,
I'm sceptical that incorporating Red Rye here will give you what you want. This is a French traditional recipe, although the real thing is made with 100% rye flours, apparently! The Red Rye is usually used in conjunction with use of a hot "scald" in Russian bread baking. Red Rye is best used in formulae for Borodinsky and Rossisky in the Russian tradition.
I look forward to reading your post, whatever you decide to make.
Take care
Andy
to add a scald to your recipe then and see how much worse that butcher's it up than my normal attempt at butchering your recipes. :-)
version of this bread and it turned out great - even though it appears that my version of red rye malt isn't - at all. Just loved this bread with the scald anyway. Posted it as Seigle d’Auvergne Meets Borodinski.
Thanks for the recipe again.
Bake On.
I am determined to do this for Easter. Inspiring loaf! best wishes, candis
You'll love this loaf Candis,
It will be amazing made with your treasured rye sourdough
Very good to hear from you
Best wishes
Andy
I made it this weekend and was going to put it in the freezer for Easter. nearly half gone already! I have a French cousin coming...but really don't have the energy to do it again so will have to slice it before they arrive. thanks a lot, it is on the favorites list forever.
Hi Oleg,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you; I had a few weeks away from the Board to finish my studies.
Do you have an oven thermometer to use to monitor the real temperature inside your oven?
Ordinarily, I find the exact opposite effect with switching to Convection. I tend to compensate by lowering the temperature by 15*C to stop bread from becoming too dark. Do note, however, that these are very big loaves....over 1700g. They are also dense-textured, so a lengthy and solid bake is essential. They have to be in the oven a minimum of 1 hour. After that, you can use a probe to ensure the core temperature has reached 96*C. These 2 measures would be my initial baking parameters.
All good wishes
Andy
Hi Oleg,
I don't think you will get away with a single proof in the banneton I'm afraid. You could give it a try, but there is a danger that the bread will be overly dense.
However, the principles espoused by Leader ensure relatively rapid fermentation, as the process uses hot water. Do you have a copy of Local Breads by Daniel Leader?
The temperatures I cite are the real temperatures for my SMEG electric oven. However, I usually bake wood-fired, in my brick oven, so the baking temperatures can be much more variable!
Many thanks for you compliments; I am really glad to read how much you like this bread.
Best wishes
Andy
Hi Oleg,
I'll send you a pm later with more advice. If you have the book it will make sense to you. I realise in this post I didn't use the hot water process, but I do now. It will speed up your bulk time, I'm sure. Yes, the book is legendary for its errors, I'm afraid.
Best wishes
Andy
Hi Oleg,
When you log into TFL, you should see "Messages" in the top left of the options. Click on that and there should be a message from me.
Let me know if you still can't find it, but there is plenty of detail waiting there for you
Best wishes
Andy